A Beautiful Mess: El Dorado International Airport


A Beautiful Mess:  El Dorado International Airport

The new international terminal at Bogota’s airport opened October 18th and it is gorgeous.  Walls of windows and sky-high ceilings give the new terminal a feeling of light and airy spaciousness.  The new space is great for International travelers and on a recent trip to another part of South America, I breezed through check-in and security in just minutes with no hassles.

But for in-country travelers – a word of caution:  while Avianca offers some of the best deals around* – finding their terminal for domestic flights can be a real headache.  While the majority of domestic carriers including LAN, COPA and Sabena are housed in the domestic portion of the airport – Avianca is housed in a completely different area.  Even with my basic Spanish skills, it took some maneuvering.   I had arrived at the airport in what should have been plenty of time; but between trekking  from the international terminal (where my taxi driver insisted on dropping me off despite my protests) walking around ongoing construction and upgrades down to the domestic terminal (passing three separate, but not the correct, Avianca desks) requiring several stops for directions and finally a ride on a bus to get to the Avianca domestic terminal;  I missed my first flight, for which they wanted to charge me a 100,000 peso fine.

While I was able to negotiate my way out of the fine, and ended up flying standby on the next flight – I would advise fellow travelers to other destinations in Colombia to leave early.  Give yourself plenty of time to get around – and catch the airport shuttle if needed.  (Of course, now that you know where the Avianca terminal has been relocated – just ask your transportation to take you there.)  From the outside it looks like a maintenance hanger, with corrugated aluminum walls, (the only different is that now the building is teeming with activity).

But despite the hassles – in six months – El Dorado International Airport will be beautiful and finished.  All of these hassles and confusion will be sorted out – and travel will be smooth and effortless; like it was for my recent trip to Chile.

In the meantime, if you get the opportunity to see other parts of Colombia like Medellin, Cali, Cartagena, Santa Marta or the Coffeelands – do it.. Just be prepared for a little chaos on the way out..  Try Viva Colombia for low-cost domestic flights..usually around 40 to 60 dollars a trip (Medellin to Bogotá, one-way)

*For my current domestic excursion consisting of a three leg journey – from Bogotá to Cali – then Cali to Medellin and then back to Bogotá again – the total price was only 156.00 dollars (taxes included).

The people of Bogota


I’m actually out of the city for a few days – but during my long flight, I reflected on some of the reasons I enjoy this city so much.

Why do I enjoy Bogotá so much?

Well, the people, of course!  Now, I know that people are shaking their heads – but for a small-town girl like me,  a cosmopolitan city like Bogotá is very exciting indeed.   So many festivals, events, galleries and museums**.

But it’s the people who are the heart of the city – and what really brings it alive.   Just this week, I had the opportunity to rub shoulders with and talk to a Colombian film director, a geo-petroleum engineer, a civil rights (labor) attorney  and one of the executives of Caracol.   It’s just that kind of town – like Washington D.C. but down-to-earth and accessible.  [Now, my little eight-year-old friend, Flavia has met President Santos just walking on the street one day, but I haven’t.]  But there are still wonderful opportunities to meet and talk to interesting people who I might not cross paths with in my ‘normal’ life in the hospital.

For example, I found myself sitting next to the film director, Andres Barrientos at a birthday party for a mutual friend. (Of course, the guests at the party were a like a small UN delegation – but less protocol and more fun;  it included Colombians,  two delightful ladies from Venezuelan, a British gentleman, and the guest of honor – another American like myself –except for her beautiful Argentinean Spanish.)  These are all just people and friends I have made wandering around the city..

Of course – talking about the ‘extranjeros’ or foreigners living in Bogotá is an entirely different topic – and one we will get around to one of these days.  But as I chatted with the very normal, very nice Mr. Barrientos (and he politely refrained from laughing at the ridiculousness of my YouTube efforts), it made me consider how many film producers I met in Danville, Virginia, Mexicali, Mexico or Reno, Nevada during my various moves.  (The cumulative answer is: Zero.)  And why would I – on the streets of my small southern town?  But Bogotá is a different matter entirely – it is a global city, with its tenacles on the pulse of Colombia, Latin America and the world.

Global positioning and perspectives

Talking with labor attorneys and several petroleum company officers just brings home some of the amazing lack of insight we (as North Americans) have on some many issues affecting the rest of the world – and our roles within this context.

While Americans are often accused of being willfully ignorant – this just isn’t true.  The reality is that: we are intentionally blinded as citizens to much of the outside world.  I mean, I make a continuous, specific concerted effort to find English language information about issues facing Latin America (for this blog) and it is exceedingly difficult.

What we do see on CNN, BBC and our nightly news and read has already been translated (and censored) for our consumption.  As a result – if it isn’t a  sensationalized report about a bomb going off somewhere – or a huge drug seizure, then there just isn’t much information available – whether we are talking about our southern neighbor, Mexico, the economic powerhouse of Brazil, Colombia, Peru, Chile or any of another dozen countries.

But when you live somewhere like Bogotá – you become more globally informed just by meeting and interacting with all of your fellow Bogotá residents – from UN representatives, other foreign nationals on down to your every day taxi driver.  (Always talk to the taxi drivers – they are usually exceedingly nice, have a wealth of information and different perspectives on everything from affordable healthcare, the American presidential elections, the environment and Latin American economic policies.  You will be surprised what you will learn.)

That’s just something I can’t get on Main Street, Danville, Virginia..

**Speaking of which – they are offering my book for sale at the Festival de Librarias in Parque 93 this weekend.

More health problems from Vice-president Garzon


Long plagued by cardiac problems, and a recent stroke; Vice President Garzon now has another burgeoning health crisis; prostate cancer.  This news seems almost incredulous; just as the President of the nation, President Juan Manuel Santos recovers from his own surgery for prostate cancer.  This prompted a discussion among the Colombian senate a to whether Garzon will continue in his position as vice president – as his recent health problems are interfering with his ability to participate in the governing of the nation – Garzon acknowledged these limitations..

Speculation as to the extent of Garzon’s cancer varies, but it is presumed to be more advanced than President Santos, as Garzon is scheduled to undergo 39 radiation treatments rather than surgery.

Vice-president Garzon’s wife is recovering her own battle with cancer for renal cell carcinoma after a recent nephrectomy.

Colombian Economy

a homeless woman rests against a construction barrier of one of the newest Bogotá high rises

In other Colombian national news – a recent (last week) report gives the official unemployment rate at 16%.  Despite this – widespread construction and other signs of economic growth continue in the capital city, Bogotá.

construction of new building on Carrera 19B, more construction seen in the background

It seems as if all of Barrio Chico, Usaquen and all of the surrounding (and mainly upscale neighborhoods) are undergoing extensive growth – as multiple high-rise apartment buildings are being added to the skyline.

More construction in Barrio Chico

More upgrades and changes coming to Transmileno – so frequent riders and tourists need to be aware – the city is getting ready to change to the classic red “rojo’ translmileno card as they upgrade the transportation system.  (Cards come in green, blue and red versions).  Riders are being advised to buy tickets in a  pay-as-you-go fashion to avoid losing their fares as these changes are implemented over the next three weeks.

blue and green Transmileno cards

There  are new lines, new stops and new triple sized buses aimed to preventing some of the congestion and overcrowding which plagues the system at peak hours.  This is the third phase of a plan to integrate and upgrade the city’s transportation system.

Green living in Bogota


We’ve talked a lot about how the city encourages exercise on Sundays  – by closing the streets to promote family outdoor activities – but the city has quite a few more examples of healthy living… Many of the local parks have exercise equipment donated by local health insurance companies.

people exercising in the park

Even more interesting – is some of the green architecture in the city.  Here are a few examples just from my daily walk around Carerra 11 and Carrera 15.  (I’m sure there is a lot more if I actually made an effort to look.)

Green architecture in Bogotá

If you look close at this home, you will see the walls are completely covered in greenery – and it’s not creeping vines..

on Carrera 11

Here’s another example (a delicious one – since it’s attached to a Crepes Y Waffles restaurant.)

And for the finally, the Hotel B3 Virrey on Carrera 15 #88-36, (next to a park, and the flower stalls – and just three blocks from Clinica del Country).

The Hotel B3 on Carrera 15

Sunday in Usaquen


Sunday streets open for pedestrians

Since I am always talking about Sundays in Bogotá – I thought I would post some photos..

Today we walked along the streets (Carrera Septima) to enjoy the sunshine in Usaquen.

Streets closed to auto traffic to allow Bogotanos to enjoy the city, walking, on bikes, skates, skateboards – and strollers as families enjoy the sun.

We walked to the marketplace and enjoyed the park.  (One of things I particularly love is that when you go to the park – kids are playing soccer, not with their iPhones..  (of course they have iPhones- they just put them aside for a few hours.)

Flavia in park,, kids playing in background

Teaching Flavia some basic gymnastics today – cartwheels, handstands and such..

in the park

A girl offering puppies in the park (with parents, not pictured)

vintage rides in Usaquen

This guy was minding his own business – but he just looked cool (James Dean style)..

 

 

you can see the tips of the marketplace stalls (white tent tops)

 

Do you dance (to) Reggaeton?


So – while making conversation here with new friends – music often comes up..  Ever since the Virgin Islands – I am a huge fan of reggaeton.  (There were two stations on the island – a horrible, horrible reggae and a station out of Puerto Rico..)

So every morning, I would cruise down the hill to the PR station jamming to the likes of Wisin y Yandel, Don Omar, and Daddy Yankee..


I mean – what’s not to like?

So when people would ask if I liked to dance to Reggaeton, I would shrug and say ‘sure’ and wonder why eyebrows were raised – and giggles abounded..

I mean – sure – I dance (if you can call it that) around my kitchen  listening to reggaeton, and singing (off-key) in Spanish..

Haha..  But that’s not exactly what they were referring to..

I don’t think it was lost in translation – (I am just too old for that sort of gymnastics – ‘cuz this video is actually extremely tame..)

So, to answer the original question – You can relax – this [middle-aged, klutzy] little gringa does not dance to reggaeton..

This week in Bogota


Finished a short film on robotic surgery yesterday and posted it to YouTube.

Going to the operating room this week with Dr. Torres, the nice young thoracic surgeon I spoke with last week.

Fashionistas beware!

I’ll be assisting Bogotano fashionistas this week – co-hosting a fashion party with my friend, Camila.  She is moving to Miami so she has to liquidate all the stock from her popular store on Calle 95.  It will be an afternoon of wine, cheese, fashion and fun – as she hosts a mini-fashion show for some of our friends on Saturday.

Closets by Camila is hosting a fashion event

A reggaeton group is playing down on Calle 83 this Friday – so we’ll be down there to check it out..

There’s also a big hip-hop event in Parque Simon Bolivar this weekend.  It’s the 16th year for this event – and it sounds like a lot of fun.

Still hoping to hike Monserrate but haven’t gotten around to it yet – but when I do, I’ll post some photos.

Robotic surgery at Clinica de Marly


I hope everyone is enjoying some of the changes in format – after all the wonderful experiences I had writing the Mexicali book, I thought I would start incorporating more local culture and content in the blog when I am in Bogotá.  (I have always enjoyed Bogotá – but my writing tended to be rather dry and uni-focal so from now on, I’ll try to include more local information about the city since I am in the midst of it all.)

Barbie display at Andino Mall, Carrera 11 No 82-01

It doesn’t mean that I am any less interested in crucial issues in medical tourism, quality measures or surgery – I just won’t focus on these topics exclusively.

I spent yesterday over at Clinica de Marly with Dr. Ricardo Buitrago to watch one of his robotic surgery cases.  They’ve been doing robotic surgery over at Marly for several years – but Dr. Buitrago just started the first robotic program in thoracic surgery in Colombia.  (Previously the robot was used exclusively for urology and gynecology surgery).

Robotic surgery with Dr. Ricardo Buitrago

Dr. Buitrago trained with the renown robotic (thoracic) surgeon, Dr. Mark Dylewski – and has been a thoracic surgeon for over 20 years so it is always interesting to watch one of his cases – robots or no robots..

Just published a new article about robotic-assisted thoracic surgery over at the Examiner.com along with photos and a short film clip that shows the robot in action.  I am working on a longer film that provides a better look at what robotic surgery really is/ what it entails.

 

Photo shoot day 2


In National news today – sure don’t know what those Nicaraguans were thinking to ‘wander’  [ie. smuggle] into Colombian waters and cause an international ‘diplomatic’ incident..

Police found a truck literally full of drugs.. It was a construction vehicle – and when they examined it – it was literally stuffed with drugs that came pouring out when they pierced the body of the truck..

Completely hooked on the ‘El Patron’ series.. My Spanish must be getting better because I can actually distinguish the Medellin accent. Going to have to find a boxed set to bring back home with me since I missed the first season.

Can’t help but love this fabulous city – always something going on – something to see, people to meet and talk to..  (and Bogota loves all its citizens..)

street art

Met some LDS missionaries from California today.. Such nice kids – said they are enjoying the city.

Back in the studio with the fabulous Aj for another dramatic photo shoot.. Two different looks today –   the first is 1920’s theme – aka “Betty Boop

Like I said – I’m not the professional photographer – he’s just nice enough to let me take some pictures while I’m there.. so these are the unretouched, unaltered versions.. He’ll probably do something really fabulous with the ones he took..  I just though y’all would enjoy seeing another facet of my daily life here in Bogotá.

The Betty Boop pout

I have a picture of Aj with the photographer – a great guy named Edgar Bernal.  He has a shop on Calle 64 No 7 – 38 (and a great eye for style.)

Aj gets a touch up – as if perfection needs any help!

One more Betty Boop –

For the next set – more of a traditional 1920’s Bob, if you can call fuchsia traditional.

getting ready

She has such the perfect face for this look –

Then a quick stop – just to pop-in and say hello to German Encino and his wife, Else.. They are the owners (and operators) of a little corner restaurant called the Superdeli on Calle 64 No. 8 -04.  I didn’t stay for lunch this time – but it’s definitely one of my favorites – just a laid back place – good food, nice atmosphere, and nice people..

German Encino and his wife

I do a lot of wandering / exploring/ adventuring around the city – so I end up at different little cafes and kitchens everyday but I wanted to mention Superdeli for a couple of reasons – one – the food is good enough that I’ve come back several times (and the Lulu juice!)  and secondly – they are always friendly and welcoming in a neighborly way – not a ‘hello tourist’ way…

On that note – of wandering – a little advice to fellow wanderers…

If you can see the mountains – you are never really lost..

If you can see the mountains – you are never really lost, and can always find your way home.. The carrera starts at the base of the mountain (carrera 1) – so if you walk a few streets – you’ll hit carrera 7 (septima) which is a main artery for the city..

The calles run in the opposite direction – Calle 1 is in the heart of town (not a particularly nice area but some interesting stuff is located here – like Hospital San Juan de Dios) and heads outwards in both directions..

they only look fierce –

Of course, if you are really LOST – these guys (above) are always happy to help.. Even if you don’t speak Spanish.. (Just keep a note card with your local address on it – it’s also good for taxicabs..)

Had a great day in the operating room today – so I’ll post something tomorrow (with pics)..

Typical Day in Bogota


Just another typical day in the busy city..

Spent the morning talking to a very gracious young thoracic surgeon named Dr. Luis Torres.  He’s Colombian but spent several years studying in Brazil.  He’s now back in Bogotá and working at Clinica Palermo.  He was delightful to talk to; I’ll tell you more after a visit to the operating room with him next week.

Then I stopped by to visit a friend during her photo shoot.. The vision was supposed to be “The Virgin Queen” aka Elizabeth the First of England but after a few modifications – she made a fantastic Veronica Lake..

The photographer/ make-up artist was fantastic – and let me peek over his shoulder and take my own photos.. Here’s my favorite one..

the fabulous Aj , Colombian model endures the flashbulbs of an enthusiastic press

I know, I know, I should have cropped out the light and blended the shadows – but I kind of like the feeling the light evokes.. (it reminds me of those old-time flashbulbs..)

Several more great photos 

I thought about editing some of the pics – but then I figured – that’s for the experts – and Aj is so pretty, my poor photography can’t take away from that..

Aj – Colombian model

Veronica Lake

After the shoot – we went to another one of the random sidewalk cafes before window shopping at one of my favorite boutiques –  a little vintage shop called Chiros Elegantes on Carrera 11 No. 67-32.   Vintage shops are few and far between it seems around here – but this space is fabulous..

On the way – took a picture of some random graffiti – just because the slogan amused me..  haha.. now substitute ‘cojones’ for ‘conejo’ and it almost makes sense..  (Conejo is rabbit – as in ‘bunny rabbit.’

Ay carumba! who will save the conejos??

New International Terminal to open October 18th


Returned to Bogotá after a conference, and I am happy to report that the massive airport construction project at Bogotá Airport (El Dorado International Airport) is almost finished.  The first flight from the new terminal will be on October 17th – with full operations commencing in the new terminal on October 18th, 2012.

As one of the busiest airports in Latin America – and a hub for Avianca, Copa, LAN, Satena and EasyFly – (offering 6,000 flights per week on Avianca alone) this new terminal will ease congestion and improve traveler comfort..  I am flying out again later this month – so I will update everyone on all the details soon.

Want to wait in style?  Check out the VIP lounges.

The Presidental Prostate: Santos to undergo surgery for prostate cancer


Since I didn’t pass through passport control, and I’m not leaving the airport before flying to the next destination – I guess I’m not really in Peru.

That’s okay, because all eyes are on President Juan Manuel Santos, back in Bogotá, where he has announced that he will be undergoing surgery for prostate cancer at Santa Fe de Bogotá.  My heart goes out to President Santos and his family.

I must admit that I am also wincing a bit in sympathy, as Caracol, RCN and all the other networks have been using multiple audio-visual aids to ‘enlighten’ the public as the state of the president’s prostate.  While I am not normally squeamish – I was just a bit embarrassed for him – particularly since one network imposed his head on a computer-animated model (complete with animation showing the effect of prostate hypertrophy on urination/ sexual function.)

Of course, the announcement of President Santos cancer diagnosis has added fuel to the ‘cancer conspiracy’ voiced by President Chavez (Venezuela) last year.  (Indeed, the blazing headlines of the famous communist rag, Pravda screams, “Washington puts evil eye on Latin American leaders“.

Now with the more moderate Santos on the list on cancer-stricken politicians, more mainstream journalists have picked up / rehashed the story.

All the same, this gringa wishes President Santos a successful surgery and a speedy recovery.

Sundays outside Bogota


Since we’ve talked about the beauty of Sunday afternoons in Bogotá in previous posts – today we will talk about another great Bogotano Sunday tradition – the afternoon ‘in the country’.

When Bogotanos need or want a break from the hustle and bustle of the city – they don’t have to go far to enjoy a sunny afternoon in a more rural setting.  Just twenty minutes outside of Bogotá – the climate becomes warmer, and the landscape more serene.  Bogotanos by the carloads head out to enjoy an afternoon of “Colombian tipica” cuisine which includes some of my favorites; Morcilla (a delicious blood sausage), a corn-based soup, arapas, ribs and an array of traditional Colombian foods.

Enjoying Colombian tipico with friends, outside of Bogotá

Afterwards, a trip to the market for farm-fresh vegetables and fruits.  Today, we went to the market in Chia – a cocoa-scented orgy of a wide array of fruits and vegetables..  (About the only thing I’ve never seen here in blueberries – but with the vast variety of fruits here in Colombia, you will never miss them..)

Market in Chia

I know that I’ve talked about the various fruit markets before – but for me; these fruit markets are a symbol of how I see Colombia as a nation:  a country with such a rich bounty of resources, and a colorful mix of history and culture.  To me – it is impossible not to feel this way while strolling through the aisles.. Beautiful, colorful, deliciously rich fruit; familar standards (bananas, apples, oranges, strawberries) mixed in with the more exotic textures and tastes (frujoa, uchuva, guabanaba, about ten varieties of mangos, six different pomagranate type fruits, the sweetest pineapples ever tasted..)  And that’s just the fruit..

 

But more than escaping the city for a few hours to enjoy the food, and the sunshine – it’s a day to spend time with family and friends..  (Which is another thing that Bogotanos and Colombians do with style and enthusiasm..)

Spending the afternoon with friends

In the United States, we often tout our love of family and friends – but just as often, we don’t make the time to spend with them.  (I am just as guilty of that as anyone else.)  But  – it ‘s different here – no matter how busy (and many of the people I know here are extremely busy!) people stop to have a leisurely cup of coffee, a stroll in the park, or a long lunch with friends..  As someone who frequently travels alone – the friends I have made here during my extended visits have made a huge difference.. It’s more than the informal tours, and accidental introductions – it’s the sense of friendship, love and comraderie which made six months away from home and family bearable..  Not only that – but I find that these habits, and traditions become part of the lifestyles of everyone who lives here – so the Americans, the Germans, the South Africans and everyone else I’ve met has adopted many of these practices as well.  I know I have – taking time to smell the flowers, enjoy the day, no matter what else is on my schedule – and remembering to enjoy time with and appreciate the people I am with..

 

What is home? (and where is home?)


One of the questions I am asked frequently when I travel is “Where do you live?” or “Where are you from?” and sometimes, “Where is home?”

While these questions seem the same – they aren’t.  For someone like me who travels often for extended durations – the answers are often deeper than the questions.  The nature of the question of home changes.  Of course, I am from the United States – and I always will be; a born and bred southerner from Virginia.  But is it home?  Probably not, as my extended family lives in several different points of the globe, and without a job or a house in Virginia there is very little reason to return.

the neighborhood I call home..

Where do I live?  Not so easily either – unless you are asking directions to the apartment here in Bogota where I am staying for the next several months.  But is that home?  The answer is yes, and no.

I am not a native Bogotano and never will be.  My trips here are always too brief stops before heading on. But at the same time, in many ways it does feel like home.  Just yesterday – as I took my Sunday stroll, I ran into a friend of mine, so we walked a bit and enjoyed the sunny day.  Then as I was coming back, two people asked me for directions – (which I was able to give)..  Today, I am helping teach an English class and tomorrow I will be doing more research..

if home is having a favorite restaurant, then this is certainly it..

So in that sense, Bogota is more my home than several other places I’ve stayed.  I have favorite places to lunch, to shop, to buy groceries – all of those things that come with familiarity, with belonging. I can hop on and off Transmileno like a native and navigate myself through this busy city.  But in a few months – I will leave again – and don’t know when I will return.. so I guess Bogota is not home either.

Maybe home is the place a person longs to be.  But even that is fraught with complexity.  While I love my friends here, and always look forward to being here, for example,  I am also ‘homesick’ for many of my friends back in Mexicali..

or is this (the operating room/ hospital) home? Because I am certainly there a lot – and I miss it when I’m away..

I guess in the end, home is defined as my personal comfort zone.. so where ever my laptop and I end up – for how ever long – that must be home.

Colombia Reports needs our help!


Colombia Reports, the largest English language news site for Latin America needs our help.  Adriaan Alsema, the founder and editor-in-chief informed me that they are having some cash flow problems after a bank fraud was committed against their accounts.

This breaks my heart – as I rely on Colombia Reports for the majority of my news.. It’s essential as a writer; living, studying and writing in another country to have at least a basic understanding of sociopolitical and economic situation.  None of the other sites – even the biggies like CNN, and BBC even come close to giving a wide-ranging overview like Colombia Reports.

So, now Colombia Reports is asking for our help – us, the readers..  and I am repeating that request.  If you enjoy Colombia Reports, do what you can to support them.

On a more personal note – Adriaan Alsema was one of the first people to run one of my articles, which gave me the confidence to keep writing..  So,  I wish him the best of luck –

Article about Colombia Reports on Examiner.com

Bogota revisited


Finishing my first week in the doctoral nursing program before heading back to Bogotá in mid-September.  (I’ll be keeping in touch with my professors via Skype, Scopia and a variety of on-line media.)

I am exciting to be coming back to a city that I have come to know and love!  In fact, my only regret is that I didn’t devote enough pages of the book to the city itself.  At the time, I rationalized that people who were interested in the city would be able to find plenty of information in the existing travel guides (and I am not a traditional travel writer) – so I devoted myself wholeheartedly to medical tourism, hospitals and surgery.  But as time has passed – I regret not sharing the city more with readers, since after living there for almost six months (and traveling all over the city daily), I certainly became intimately familiar with much of it.

So, readers will be happy to hear that I haven’t made that mistake with my latest book on Mexicali, MX – but I am just happy to be going back to Bogotá, a city that truly has captured my heart..

It’s insidious, you know.  The things that I initially didn’t like (like the ‘eternal autumn’ weather) become some of the very things that make me enjoy the city so much.   Bogotá is a city that has to be ‘known’ to really be appreciated.  If you don’t scratch beneath the surface of this vibrant, amazing place, then you really won’t see (and love) the city.

For example; that cool, mild weather, that had me groaning the first few weeks also made it possible for me to spend much of my time outdoors – exploring the city, walking miles everyday.  Spend a week sweltering in Cartagena (or Mexicali, in August, for that matter) and you will see what I mean.

The food that seemed plain and unspiced at first, became something to savor.  All of the exotic and tangy fruits, and ‘real’ food taste – unmasked by heavy additives let me appreciate how wholesome and unaltered it really was.  It made me appreciate the subtlety and complexities of the meals I was enjoying.  (If you drown everything in ketchup or hot sauce – what are you really tasting?)

So, in just a few weeks – I will be back in this wonderful, charming, whirlwind place that has claimed a little corner of my heart.

Colombia to enter new trade agreement


Continued signs of the impending rise of Latin America and Colombia as the south american nation enters a new trade agreement with the European Union.  This comes just a few short months after Colombia and the United States finalized a new trade agreement expanding a safeguarding Colombian imports to the United States (among other things.)

With a wealth of resources including oil/ gas, emeralds, as well as an abundance of agricultural products such as coffee, flowers, bananas and other foodstuffs, Colombia has become a highly attractive market to investors now that FARC and other destabilizing forces are on the wane.

Good news for Colombia and good news for investors wise enough to take advantage of this country’s enormous potential.

Vice President Angelino Garzon undergoes surgery


Bogotá’s neurosurgeons are certainly staying busy.   Several days ago, the mayor of Bogotá, Gustavo Petro underwent emergency neurosurgery at Fundacion Santa Fe de Bogotá.  Now comes news that the vice-president of Colombia, Angelino Garzon underwent a similar surgery this week for a hematoma at Clinica Reina Sofia.  Details on English language news sites are somewhat sketchy as to his actual medical condition (which sounds like a hemorrhagic stroke), the surgery itself and his prognosis.

VP Garzon, who has a history of cardiovascular disease, underwent emergency heart surgery with Dr. Hernando Santos at Clinica Shaio just two days after he (and President Santos) took office in 2010.

Most recently, he was being treated for a urological condition and it was during follow up medical examinations that his condition was detected.

Update: 23 June 2012

The mayor of Bogota – Gustavo Petro is back at work after successful neurosurgery.

Meanwhile, Vice-president Angelino Grazon remains in guarded, if stable condition after being placed in a medically induced coma while he recovers from a recent stroke and subsequent surgery.

 

Neurosurgery at Santa Fe de Bogota


Dr. Fernando Hakim Daccach (left), neurosurgery – Santa Fe de Bogota

As you can imagine, millions of pairs of eyes are turned towards Santa Fe de Bogota – and the department of Neurosurgery after the mayor of Bogotá, Gustavo Petro was admitted with a subdural hematoma, and subsequently underwent surgery.

Many people don’t know that Bogotá is actually the home to modern neurosurgery.  Dr. Salomon Hakim, one of the founders of modern neurosurgery and inventor of the Hakim shunt for hydrocephalus called Bogota home.  (Sadly, he died just last year.)

But neurosurgery in Colombia doesn’t begin or end with Dr. Salomon Hakim.  With five neurosurgery residency programs and over 150 practicing neurosurgeons in Bogotá – new innovations and treatments are being developed here everyday.

Many of these fine surgeons practice at Fundacion Santa Fe de Bogota such as Dr. Aristizabal – Chief of the Neurosurgery residency program, or Dr. Carlos Cure, Dr. Enrique Jimenez and Dr. Fernando Hakim .

Others such as Dr. Pedro Penagos or Dr. Juan Fernando Ramon are scattered throughout the city – treating brain cancers at the National Cancer Institute, or caring for the families of policemen at the Hospital de la Policia – and innovating in the field of neuronavigation.

While my heart goes out to the Mayor of Bogotá, and his family – hopefully the international media stories on his health will give some well-deserved attention to these fine (and humble) neurosurgeons.

 

References and additional information: Updated 17 June 2012

Gustavo Petro webpage

According to their website, they anticipate the mayor will be discharged home soon (in a statement dated today, June 17th.)  We are glad to hear he is making such a speedy recovery.

 

The health benefits of a Sunday in Bogota


A very nice article in BBC latin america talking about the health benefits of those great Sundays in Bogotá that I previously mentioned..  All that family togetherness, along with the street closures for pedestrians, and bicyclists equals a healthier, fitter city..

During my time in Bogotá, I found that the city lifestyle (close compact streets), along with the mild climate made it very easy to exercise and to replace driving/ taking a taxi/ bus with walking for all but the most lengthy journeys.  At one point, I was actually clocking in around eight to ten miles a day as I transversed the city..

It’s a whole different story at my current location (Mexico) where temperatures have been upwards of 40 degrees centigrade (100 degrees) already since early April – and are only projected to get hotter  (50 centigrade in July)..   It’s already hot by 7am and the heat is a living breathing wave that rises up from the pavement to meet you.  It involves a lot of advanced planning, and preparation to get any sort of real exercise here..

Cartagena update: Dr. Cristian Barbosa, cardiac surgeon


with Dr. Pulido (left) and Dr. Barbosa in Cartagena (2010).

I wanted to post an update on a fantastic surgeon (who has since become a good friend).  In fact, Dr. Cristian Barbosa was one of the first surgeons I ever interviewed back in 2010 – and without his encouragement, the first book would have never gotten off the ground.  Maybe not the second book (Bogotá!) either – since once I said the magic words, “Oh – I interviewed Dr. Barbosa in Cartagena last year,” plenty of other surgeons who might not have talked to me – started to take me seriously.

with Dr. Barbosa back in 2010

Ever since then – I try to keep in contact with Dr. Barbosa – he’s a great person and an absolutely phenomenal surgeon, so I email him every so often..

Since my last visit, back in August – Dr. Barbosa has left Hospital Neuvo Bocagrande – and is now operating in Clinica Santa Maria in Sincelejo, Colombia.

Sincelejo is the capital of the state of Sucre, which is part of the Caribbean region of Colombia.  Like most of this part of Colombia – it has a rich history, and was founded back in 1535 in the name of St. Francis de Assis, though it was long inhabited prior to that by native Colombian tribes such as the Zenu.  Unlike nearby Cartagena (125km north), Sincelejo is a more mountainous landscape, and is known for their agriculture, particularly cattle.  (wow – my stomach just rumbled  – must be missing those gourmet Corral burgers, which are my one Colombian indulgence.. Argentina has nothing on Colombian beef.)

Dr. Barbosa is still living in Cartagena and making a three-hour commute to perform life-saving surgery, while he works on creating a new cardiac surgery program back in our favorite seaside city.  (Hopefully, when he does – we’ll be invited back to take a look!)

gate at the entrance to the historic el centro district

sunset in Cartagena, Colombia

US – Colombia Free Trade Agreement to be implemented in May


President Santos and President Obama at the Summit of the Americas

Despite a rocky start at the Summit of the Americas for President Obama (and talk of a widespread boycott of the Summit next year by a dozen countries), it looks like the deal brokered between Obama and Santos for a free trade agreement between Colombia and the United States will be implemented early.  The agreement which was first signed in October of 2011 will begin in May.

This agreement will reduce the tarifs on 80% of all imported Colombian goods.   (No, not cocaine – despite talks of legalization in multiple latin american countries.)  These goods include the huge floral industry (if you’ve bought flowers recently – they were probably from Colombia), along with other notable exports such as fruits (bananas, tropical fruits), gems (Colombia is home to the world’s largest supply of emeralds, ladies..), their famously rich coffee, fossil fuels and other minerals.

In return the US will be exporting such goods as wheat, sorgham and other agricultural products in additional to more specialized items such as aviation parts.

Now if only they would make a special ‘fast pass’ lane in Customs for medical travellers returning to the USA as part of similar trade efforts.

Summit of the Americas


cobblestone streets in the historic district of Cartagena, Colombia

Summit of the Americas – Cartagena, Colombia

As anticipated, President Obama is receiving some harsh criticisms for the Cuban embargo begun by fellow democrat, President John F. Kennedy in October of 1960.  (Despite the long-standing embargo, the United States remains the fifth largest exporter to the island nation.)

This embargo, which was initiated in response to the Cuban nationalization of private properties as part of the institution of a communist regime, reached full strength in February of 1962, and has continued unabated since then.  In fact, the American embargo was re-affirmed in 1992 with passage of the Cuban Democracy Act, and again in 1996 with Helms – Burton Act which further prevents private American citizens from having business relationships or trade with Cuba.

At the summit, the host of the event, President Juan Manual Santos (Calderon) has been one of the more outspoken critics of this on-going trade policy and public relations nightmare.  President Santos argues, fairly successfully in my opinion, that not only is the embargo an outmoded method of diplomatic negotiation, but that is has been an ineffective one (in inspiring governmental and philosophical change in Cuba.)

President Santos respectfully requests that Obama reconsider the decades old policies of trade embargo. Photo by AP press

This comes after President Obama was embarrassed by a prostitution scandal involving several of his private security detail.  At the time of this writing, eleven members of the secret service along with five members of the military has been openly disciplined, and returned home.

Colombian prostitutes – photo found at multiple sites, including another wordpress blog and http://azizonomics.com/tag/colombian-prostitutes/
(If this is your photo – let me know, so I can give proper credit)

Protests against the United States have been small scale and without injury as small explosives were detonated near the American embassy.

President Obama also fielded criticism on America’s ‘War on Drugs’.  While conceding that the efforts have been a multi-billion dollar failure (with the exception of small scale victories such as the capture/ death of Pablo Escobar in 1994), Obama refused to consider efforts to legalize drugs, as are under discussion in several other nations.

In other news – in a surprise move that may predict more future instability for Venezuela, President Hugo Chavez has decided to forgo the summit as he pursues treatment for cancer (in Cuba).  This move leads to intense speculation regarding both the presidential and governmental prognosis in Venezuela.  Previously, President Chavez had been adamant that his cancer was curable and disputed reports of a more serious condition. There are now several media reports that the president has widespread metastasis affecting multiple organs.  (May I suggest that you consider HIPEC, President Chavez?)

The rise of Latin America


Big news out of Cartagena, Colombia as Hugo Chavez (Venezuela) and Bolivia’s president, Evo Morales come together with President Barack Obama and Secretary of State, Hilary Clinton along with 30 other member nations for the Summit of the Americas.  Most certainly on the agenda – discussions regarding both Mexico’s and Colombia’s decisions to decriminalize drugs, as well as the continued drug violence affecting both countries.  President Evo Morales’, a former coca grower, position on drugs and the so-called ‘Drug war’ are already well-known.

While Colombia’s crime has decreased dramatically, the reverse is true in certain parts of Mexico* – where the nightly news seems more like Vietnam footage, as reporters discuss caches of guns toted by young teenagers, and Cuidad de Juarez claims the title of ‘Murder capitol of the world.”   Much of this criminal activity has been attributed to illegal drug commerce to the United States leading several countries to blame the USA for creating havoc in their home countries as suppliers attempt to feed the hoards of American drug users.

Tensions between Venezuela, Bolivia, and Cuba against the United States are unlikely to change as a result of this Summit, but hopes remain.  The summit is also expected to put pressure on the United States regarding the 50-year-old Cuban embargo.

It’s an interesting turn of the tide – as these issues along with the economic problems plaguing the United States (and causing problems globally) put the US at a significant disadvantage.

In related news – here at Cartagena Surgery, readers are asking:

— So how dangerous is Mexico? —

Since I am currently living in a Mexican border city, you’ve picked the right time to ask.

* There are still plenty of safe and beautiful places in Mexico – but it remains a tragedy that the Sinoloa gang / drug activity have resulted in over 47,000 murders in the last five years.  ([To put this into context, let’s do some simply math.. Simple math since I’m a nurse not a statistician, so keep that in mind as you consider the limited variables here.]

1.  Mexico has over a hundred million people (or 1/3 the people of the USA)

with  47,000 murders over five years (or that’s the number that has been widely quoted.)  Divide 47,000 by five = 9,400 people murdered per year.

2.  The US has over 300 million people, and had 18,361 murders in 2007 (last year available by the US census.) So three times the people.  Hmmm.  I can already see that 18,361 divided by three is 6,120. 

3. But to be fair – let’s also look at cummulative average for the US – and compare apples to apples.. (or five years of data to five years of data.)  It’s still not entirely comparable since our latest available data is from 2007.

2007:  18,361

2006: 18,573

2005: 18,124

2004: 17,357

2003: 17,732

for a total of 90,147 murders over five years.  If we divide that by three, we get 30,039 which is only 69% of the murders in Mexico in the same number of years.  Now you can argue it either way – since the USA numbers aren’t current, etc. etc.. but Mexico’s rate IS significantly higher..

So what does that mean for travelers?  It means – stay the heck out of Juarez..  Be extra cautious in Tijuana, and Nuevo Larado – but otherwise,  use caution & commonsense when traveling in other parts of Mexico (like you would any where else!) – and enjoy yourselves.

Life in Colombia: Medellin


Adriaan Alsema, the founder of Colombia Reports (the english language paper in Colombia) originally published this blog on their site – but since it’s a nice portrait of why Americans like me find Colombia so enchanting – I wanted to mention it.

Now the author’s reasons for chosing Medellin differ from my own since I originally went to Colombia to write – but his perspectives on the friendliness of the local residents is very similar.  (Afterall – without their help – there would be no book.)  No only that – but without the various episodes of random kindnesses from complete strangers – I would probably still be wandering around the back streets of Bogotá.

Of course – whenever I come across interesting stories, blogs etc. about Bogota and Colombia in general – I like to share them with readers, so they can get their own sense of the city..  Here’s one of my latest finds – at a fellow wordpress site, Life is Real Good 😀

It’s a blog about the adventures of Eoin and Ryan, two young guys who spent six months exploring Latin America..

Cartagena as an eco-tourism destination


Mother Nature Network, (MNN) a website promoting healthier alternatives and a greener lifestyle recently headlined our own Cartagena as the destination of the week

The article highlights the easy walk-ability of the historic district as well as the healthy, and affordable cuisine of this sea port city. This is just the latest in a series of articles highlighting the historic beauty of this Colombian – Caribbean treasure. Cartagena was also highlighted by Wanderlust magazine as one of their favored destinations earlier this month.  The New York Times also featured Cartagena as a newly ‘re-discovered’ destination.

photo by CNN

This, along with recent economic developments in the tourism industry are encouraging signs of an economic upswing for Colombia, Cartagena and all of Latin America.  Intercontinental Hotels Group is also planning on building several new properties in Colombia – including Bogotá, Barranquilla and Cartagena.

At the same time, Colombia and several nations in Latin America are showing unprecedented growth and strength on the economic markets.  The recent rise of the Colombian peso is only one indicator of the future potential of Colombia as a whole.

Recent reforms have also boosted the government’s tax revenues, and led to an increased credit rating from Standard & Poor.  (If you remember, they recently downgraded the USA’s own rating.)

Foreign investors are interested in more than historic streets, and the sandy beaches of Santa Marta.  Lured by the wealth of natural resources including oil and gas  – they are flocking to this new opportunities in this previously overlooked country.  Colombia, as the third largest producer of oil in Latin America is currently being courted by Royal Dutch Shell, Exxon and Chevron for their large gas reserves.

While the coffee industry has been hurt by flooding last year – Colombian imports were up more than 17%.

Recent arrests of several leaders of FARC along with successful negotiations and changes in drug enforcement legislation, along with President Juan Manual Santos continued popularity help boost the appeal of Colombia to investors.  But – as readers know – finance is not my area of expertise.. So I have asked several financial and economic analysts for their thoughts..

Cartagena skyline - business district

Adventure Tours to Colombia


Want to see the lush beauty of Colombia without the surgery?

The tram to Monserrate

Ready to explore the sophisticated city of Bogota, combined with the historic jewel of Cartagena?   What about the sandy beaches of Santa Marta?

Overseas Adventure Travel is offering a new tour of Colombia for interested travellers.

If this whirlwind tour of Colombia isn’t enough for you – there are Bolivian and Panama add-on options.  Or you could always rent an apartment and stay a while (like I did.)

Overseas Adventure Tours

For a more tailor-made tour of Colombia, contact Mantaraya Tours.  This Colombian travel company offers a multitude of options to fit your budget (and your dreams!)

I wrote this post for the friends and family who were fascinated by my travels to Colombia – and wanted to see for themselves.  I have no affiliation or relationships with either of the companies listed.  (But if they are reading this – hope they buy a copy of the book).

Dr. Giovanni Castano, opthalmologist


Another story on the tireless efforts and surgical excellence of Bogotá surgeons – this time, Dr.  Giovanni Castano, an opthalmologist.  While I have never had the opportunity to interview Dr. Castano personally, I am not surprised that he donates his time and services to patients in remote parts of Colombia.

This tireless dedication to service is an integral part of Colombian medicine and Colombian surgeons themselves.  As part of their health care training, Colombian doctors and nurses spend anywhere from several months to a year in rural parts of Colombia as part of a government service program.  This serves as a foundation for a lifetime of service for many of these individuals and is a hallmark of the care I witnessed and received during my time in Bogotá.

Good news for travelers to Colombia!


More good news for travelers like myself – who are always looking to return to Colombia – Jet Blue has expanded its flights to Bogotá from Ft. Lauderdale..

(Ft. Lauderdale/ Miami/ Orlando) are the ‘gateway to Latin America’ for most commercial airlines.  While I am a huge fan of Avianca, with the latest labor disputes and multiple cancellations – Jet Blue remains a stellar choice.  (Both of these airlines remember how to treat their passengers – and do so with style, at lower costs than many of their competitors..) 

Hello, Cartagena!


Hello magazine says Hello to the beautiful Cartagena de Indias in this new article that highlights the romance and ambience of this charming, coastal city that was founded during the swashbuckling days of pirates and buccaneers..

Cartagena de Indias

In other news (from Colombia Reports) – if you can’t make it to Cartagena right now, don’t worry – the city is taking steps to safeguard and protect its rich history for generations of tourists to come.

Well mannered folks..


Received a nice thank you note from President Juan Manual Santos in the mail this afternoon for the copy of the book I sent..  I may not be politically active, but good manners are always appreciated – and President Santos is certainly well-mannered.

Thank you, President Santos – for making my day!

Mr. Juan Manual Santos, President of Colombia

PGA tour comes to Bogota..


The misnamed “*Nationwide’ PGA golf tour kicks off in Bogotá, Colombia next week with former United States president, Bill Clinton in attendance.   Former president Clinton will play in the Pacific Rubiales Colombia Pro-Am on February 16th at the Country Club of Bogotá.  Golfers will be competing for their share of a $600,000 purse..

For a run down of the other competitors, click here.   Native Colombian David Vanegas will be representing his home country in the tournament.

More about the Pacific Rubiales Colombia Championship

The full PGA Tour Schedule for 2012

* I am guessing ‘Nationwide’ insurance is one of the big sponsors of this event.

Colombian life: an outsider looking in..


There’s a great blog here on WordPress that I wanted to recommend to anyone interested in Bogota – and all things Colombian.  The blog is called The Wanderlust Chronicles and it follows the life, and adventures of Kate – a young teacher / translator (who reminds me a bit of myself).  I do have to say – that as I ‘cruised’ around the site, reading her posts – tears almost came to my eyes, and I became wistful for all the things I loved and enjoyed about my time in Colombia.

For everyone else –

It’s a great reference for all of you who want a bit of a different vantage point (nonmedical) on the beauty of Colombia and Colombian culture.  I hope you enjoy!

Feliz Navidad and Happy Holidays, my friends!


Click here to see a photo array (presented by Colombia Reports) showing the lights of Christmas time..

You can find more information about Christmas, Carnival and other festivals year-round in Bogotá at this webpage here.

Wishing all of my readers and friends a happy holidays and a healthy new year!

Cartagena on CNN


It looks like our Hidden Gem of a city is finally getting some of the attention it deserves – earlier this month, the city of Cartagena was featured as a ‘secret treasure’ on CNN Travel.    The article talks about the Caribbean flavor of this bright, diverse and colorful city and its rich history.

photo by CNN

Across ‘the pond’ in the UK – the Telegraph was also singing the praises of this tropical, elegant paradise and it’s status as a ‘cultural capital’..

Bogota receives high marks from the Boston Globe


Ivy Hughes at the Boston Globe recently discovered the charms and attractions of this fair city in a feature article published  today.  She reviews some of the most popular sites and scenes of the city, while dispelling many of the myths surrounding Colombia and enjoying the Transmileno experience..

In other city news, Colombia Reports just published a new story on the development of a new plastic surgery center – catering to the needs of medical tourists.

I also wanted to thank everyone – we recently reached over 10,000 visits – in just the few short months since we started this site..

Hopefully, in the future, I’ll be able to afford to make this, (and the sister sites) ad free for less distractions..

Bogota’s LBGT community, tolerance and gender reassignment surgery


Here’s the link to a nice story published on Off2Colombia as part of a press release for the city of Bogotá.  It’s a nice article (and video) that shows the diversity of this beautiful city.  As someone who lived in Bogotá for several months – I have to say that everything about this story is very true – and people in Bogotá are very friendly, warm and welcoming to EVERYONE.

Just another interesting facet of this lovely, fascinating and teeming city in the Andes..

 

New Frankie Jazz single


 

As promised, my dear readers – more about the delightfully charming and sinfully attractive Frankie Jazz.. Since our fateful (but chance encounter) this summer, Frankie Jazz has released a new single, the acoustic version of one of my personal favorites, “Fight to Stay.”   This song, as well as his album, “Let me take my way” are available over at iTunes (and are now part of my newest playlist..  so move over, Wisin & Yandel – Frankie’s come to town!)

and I just couldn’t help myself – I lifted some of his album art from his website, Frankie Jazz.  (Let me tell you – the photos of Mr. Vergara don’t do him justice..)

 

Bogota Surgery Podcasts


As part of our continuing efforts to bring medical tourism and travel information to people in a multitude of formats, we are planning to begin a series of podcasts featuring physicians and topics discussed here at Bogotá Surgery.

Come back soon for more information on our latest endeavor.