Calle de Mascotas – avenida Caracas


Just a few more weeks here in Bogotá before heading back to the United States.  My days are crammed with interviews – so I haven’t been posting as much as usual.

Right now, I am making copious notes – and taking plenty of photos so I can starting writing up several articles in the next several weeks.  Much of my  work will be published over at Colombia Reports.com so I will attempt to keep from duplicating it here.  (Also – I won’t have the time..)

I’ll still try to post pictures and stories here – about Bogotá life in general, to give readers a sense of the city, and the people here since that’s something that they won’t get with my (rather) dry surgical descriptions/ evaluations.

But – I am already working on plans to return to Bogotá, (and other parts of Colombia) this spring.  Once I have some concrete plans, I’ll post them here for readers and (potential travelers..)

homeless in Bogotá

I wandered around Avenue Caracas (Carrera 14) for a bit this afternoon.  It’s not the best area because there are a lot of homeless people, and it has a reputation for quite a bit of crime (muggings and such) but I couldn’t resist walking by the “Calle de Mascotas”  or the three blocks (from Calle 53-56) on Avenue Caracas that hold about a dozen pet stores..

The man crouched down in the photo above just finished stamping out his cooking fire as I came by..

kittens in a pet shop window

It was particularly heart-wrenching for me – while I’ve been down here in Bogotá, my long-time friend and companion – my 17-year-old cat passed away.  (Don’t worry, he was surrounded by loved ones, and died in my husband’s arms).

This inquisitive little fellow here reminded me quite of a bit of my cat (though they do not look-alike.)  So it was hard to keep walking – but then next to one of the pet stores, I watched two artists create this mural..

a work in progress

Hard to believe all this detail came from spray paint (no brushes!) but it did..

working on the mural

This artist, and his assistance were really nice, and didn’t mind me taking their pictures.

I’ll post some more stories soon.. In the meantime, you can read more about my recent interview with Ilene Little here.

This week in Bogota


Finished a short film on robotic surgery yesterday and posted it to YouTube.

Going to the operating room this week with Dr. Torres, the nice young thoracic surgeon I spoke with last week.

Fashionistas beware!

I’ll be assisting Bogotano fashionistas this week – co-hosting a fashion party with my friend, Camila.  She is moving to Miami so she has to liquidate all the stock from her popular store on Calle 95.  It will be an afternoon of wine, cheese, fashion and fun – as she hosts a mini-fashion show for some of our friends on Saturday.

Closets by Camila is hosting a fashion event

A reggaeton group is playing down on Calle 83 this Friday – so we’ll be down there to check it out..

There’s also a big hip-hop event in Parque Simon Bolivar this weekend.  It’s the 16th year for this event – and it sounds like a lot of fun.

Still hoping to hike Monserrate but haven’t gotten around to it yet – but when I do, I’ll post some photos.

Photo shoot day 2


In National news today – sure don’t know what those Nicaraguans were thinking to ‘wander’  [ie. smuggle] into Colombian waters and cause an international ‘diplomatic’ incident..

Police found a truck literally full of drugs.. It was a construction vehicle – and when they examined it – it was literally stuffed with drugs that came pouring out when they pierced the body of the truck..

Completely hooked on the ‘El Patron’ series.. My Spanish must be getting better because I can actually distinguish the Medellin accent. Going to have to find a boxed set to bring back home with me since I missed the first season.

Can’t help but love this fabulous city – always something going on – something to see, people to meet and talk to..  (and Bogota loves all its citizens..)

street art

Met some LDS missionaries from California today.. Such nice kids – said they are enjoying the city.

Back in the studio with the fabulous Aj for another dramatic photo shoot.. Two different looks today –   the first is 1920’s theme – aka “Betty Boop

Like I said – I’m not the professional photographer – he’s just nice enough to let me take some pictures while I’m there.. so these are the unretouched, unaltered versions.. He’ll probably do something really fabulous with the ones he took..  I just though y’all would enjoy seeing another facet of my daily life here in Bogotá.

The Betty Boop pout

I have a picture of Aj with the photographer – a great guy named Edgar Bernal.  He has a shop on Calle 64 No 7 – 38 (and a great eye for style.)

Aj gets a touch up – as if perfection needs any help!

One more Betty Boop –

For the next set – more of a traditional 1920’s Bob, if you can call fuchsia traditional.

getting ready

She has such the perfect face for this look –

Then a quick stop – just to pop-in and say hello to German Encino and his wife, Else.. They are the owners (and operators) of a little corner restaurant called the Superdeli on Calle 64 No. 8 -04.  I didn’t stay for lunch this time – but it’s definitely one of my favorites – just a laid back place – good food, nice atmosphere, and nice people..

German Encino and his wife

I do a lot of wandering / exploring/ adventuring around the city – so I end up at different little cafes and kitchens everyday but I wanted to mention Superdeli for a couple of reasons – one – the food is good enough that I’ve come back several times (and the Lulu juice!)  and secondly – they are always friendly and welcoming in a neighborly way – not a ‘hello tourist’ way…

On that note – of wandering – a little advice to fellow wanderers…

If you can see the mountains – you are never really lost..

If you can see the mountains – you are never really lost, and can always find your way home.. The carrera starts at the base of the mountain (carrera 1) – so if you walk a few streets – you’ll hit carrera 7 (septima) which is a main artery for the city..

The calles run in the opposite direction – Calle 1 is in the heart of town (not a particularly nice area but some interesting stuff is located here – like Hospital San Juan de Dios) and heads outwards in both directions..

they only look fierce –

Of course, if you are really LOST – these guys (above) are always happy to help.. Even if you don’t speak Spanish.. (Just keep a note card with your local address on it – it’s also good for taxicabs..)

Had a great day in the operating room today – so I’ll post something tomorrow (with pics)..

Sundays outside Bogota


Since we’ve talked about the beauty of Sunday afternoons in Bogotá in previous posts – today we will talk about another great Bogotano Sunday tradition – the afternoon ‘in the country’.

When Bogotanos need or want a break from the hustle and bustle of the city – they don’t have to go far to enjoy a sunny afternoon in a more rural setting.  Just twenty minutes outside of Bogotá – the climate becomes warmer, and the landscape more serene.  Bogotanos by the carloads head out to enjoy an afternoon of “Colombian tipica” cuisine which includes some of my favorites; Morcilla (a delicious blood sausage), a corn-based soup, arapas, ribs and an array of traditional Colombian foods.

Enjoying Colombian tipico with friends, outside of Bogotá

Afterwards, a trip to the market for farm-fresh vegetables and fruits.  Today, we went to the market in Chia – a cocoa-scented orgy of a wide array of fruits and vegetables..  (About the only thing I’ve never seen here in blueberries – but with the vast variety of fruits here in Colombia, you will never miss them..)

Market in Chia

I know that I’ve talked about the various fruit markets before – but for me; these fruit markets are a symbol of how I see Colombia as a nation:  a country with such a rich bounty of resources, and a colorful mix of history and culture.  To me – it is impossible not to feel this way while strolling through the aisles.. Beautiful, colorful, deliciously rich fruit; familar standards (bananas, apples, oranges, strawberries) mixed in with the more exotic textures and tastes (frujoa, uchuva, guabanaba, about ten varieties of mangos, six different pomagranate type fruits, the sweetest pineapples ever tasted..)  And that’s just the fruit..

 

But more than escaping the city for a few hours to enjoy the food, and the sunshine – it’s a day to spend time with family and friends..  (Which is another thing that Bogotanos and Colombians do with style and enthusiasm..)

Spending the afternoon with friends

In the United States, we often tout our love of family and friends – but just as often, we don’t make the time to spend with them.  (I am just as guilty of that as anyone else.)  But  – it ‘s different here – no matter how busy (and many of the people I know here are extremely busy!) people stop to have a leisurely cup of coffee, a stroll in the park, or a long lunch with friends..  As someone who frequently travels alone – the friends I have made here during my extended visits have made a huge difference.. It’s more than the informal tours, and accidental introductions – it’s the sense of friendship, love and comraderie which made six months away from home and family bearable..  Not only that – but I find that these habits, and traditions become part of the lifestyles of everyone who lives here – so the Americans, the Germans, the South Africans and everyone else I’ve met has adopted many of these practices as well.  I know I have – taking time to smell the flowers, enjoy the day, no matter what else is on my schedule – and remembering to enjoy time with and appreciate the people I am with..

 

What is home? (and where is home?)


One of the questions I am asked frequently when I travel is “Where do you live?” or “Where are you from?” and sometimes, “Where is home?”

While these questions seem the same – they aren’t.  For someone like me who travels often for extended durations – the answers are often deeper than the questions.  The nature of the question of home changes.  Of course, I am from the United States – and I always will be; a born and bred southerner from Virginia.  But is it home?  Probably not, as my extended family lives in several different points of the globe, and without a job or a house in Virginia there is very little reason to return.

the neighborhood I call home..

Where do I live?  Not so easily either – unless you are asking directions to the apartment here in Bogota where I am staying for the next several months.  But is that home?  The answer is yes, and no.

I am not a native Bogotano and never will be.  My trips here are always too brief stops before heading on. But at the same time, in many ways it does feel like home.  Just yesterday – as I took my Sunday stroll, I ran into a friend of mine, so we walked a bit and enjoyed the sunny day.  Then as I was coming back, two people asked me for directions – (which I was able to give)..  Today, I am helping teach an English class and tomorrow I will be doing more research..

if home is having a favorite restaurant, then this is certainly it..

So in that sense, Bogota is more my home than several other places I’ve stayed.  I have favorite places to lunch, to shop, to buy groceries – all of those things that come with familiarity, with belonging. I can hop on and off Transmileno like a native and navigate myself through this busy city.  But in a few months – I will leave again – and don’t know when I will return.. so I guess Bogota is not home either.

Maybe home is the place a person longs to be.  But even that is fraught with complexity.  While I love my friends here, and always look forward to being here, for example,  I am also ‘homesick’ for many of my friends back in Mexicali..

or is this (the operating room/ hospital) home? Because I am certainly there a lot – and I miss it when I’m away..

I guess in the end, home is defined as my personal comfort zone.. so where ever my laptop and I end up – for how ever long – that must be home.

Bogota revisited


Finishing my first week in the doctoral nursing program before heading back to Bogotá in mid-September.  (I’ll be keeping in touch with my professors via Skype, Scopia and a variety of on-line media.)

I am exciting to be coming back to a city that I have come to know and love!  In fact, my only regret is that I didn’t devote enough pages of the book to the city itself.  At the time, I rationalized that people who were interested in the city would be able to find plenty of information in the existing travel guides (and I am not a traditional travel writer) – so I devoted myself wholeheartedly to medical tourism, hospitals and surgery.  But as time has passed – I regret not sharing the city more with readers, since after living there for almost six months (and traveling all over the city daily), I certainly became intimately familiar with much of it.

So, readers will be happy to hear that I haven’t made that mistake with my latest book on Mexicali, MX – but I am just happy to be going back to Bogotá, a city that truly has captured my heart..

It’s insidious, you know.  The things that I initially didn’t like (like the ‘eternal autumn’ weather) become some of the very things that make me enjoy the city so much.   Bogotá is a city that has to be ‘known’ to really be appreciated.  If you don’t scratch beneath the surface of this vibrant, amazing place, then you really won’t see (and love) the city.

For example; that cool, mild weather, that had me groaning the first few weeks also made it possible for me to spend much of my time outdoors – exploring the city, walking miles everyday.  Spend a week sweltering in Cartagena (or Mexicali, in August, for that matter) and you will see what I mean.

The food that seemed plain and unspiced at first, became something to savor.  All of the exotic and tangy fruits, and ‘real’ food taste – unmasked by heavy additives let me appreciate how wholesome and unaltered it really was.  It made me appreciate the subtlety and complexities of the meals I was enjoying.  (If you drown everything in ketchup or hot sauce – what are you really tasting?)

So, in just a few weeks – I will be back in this wonderful, charming, whirlwind place that has claimed a little corner of my heart.

as the mercury soars..


into the 110’s (and higher) it’s been an interesting week in Mexicali.  I’ve definitely entered new territory in my book writing venture.  In the last books, I basically didn’t see the forest for the trees – meaning that even as I raced around, and enjoyed the cities I was living in – I didn’t include any of the information about the cities themselves.. Just the surgeons, and surgery.

In retrospect – I think that was a mistake.  While I know the beautiful multifaceted Bogotá, my readers don’t.  At the time, I didn’t want to duplicate the efforts of the many talented travel writers out there.  But on consideration – living in a city is so much different from visiting one.   It takes months to see and fully appreciate the nuance of many locations – especially cities..  Anyone can talk about the historic church built in 19 whatever, but it takes time and familiarity to see the beauty of Mexicali’s Graceland, or the changing canvas of the UABC museum.  It takes time to collect the stories that bring the city to life.  So now, I am trying to do that – in a small fashion with everything I’ve collected since coming here in March.

I am not Frommer’s.. I am more like his awkward, quirky little cousin. I don’t have the manpower or the resources to talk about the hundreds of restaurants here (more than 100 Chinese restaurants alone!) but I can tell you some of my favorite places; for a casual lunch with friends, or a night on the town.  I can’t give exhaustive listings on all there is to see and do in this thriving city, but I can show you the heart of it.  I can tell you about the things that make Mexicali more than just spot in the hard-baked earth; the things that make this city real, and make it a fascinating place to be.  I can make your stay; whether just a few days, weeks or months; interesting and informative.

It’s been a fascinating and amazing journey to discover these ‘pockets of life’ and living history – and now that I am outside my realm (of medicine and surgery) one that would have been impossible without the numerous people who have embraced me, and shared their wisdom.  (It’s becoming quite the list – and I’ll share it with you all soon.)

But I certainly hope that my future readers enjoy the journey as much as I have.

Saturday in Mexicali


After all our serious discussions about TAVI this week, we’ve moved on to some more casual topics.. It’s a sunny, quiet Saturday in Mexicali – so we spent the day enjoying some of what the city has to offer..

First we stopped by the Betty diner for lunch – a Betty Boop themed 50’s diner that we stumbled across the other day.

Betty Diner

Av. Honduras #123

Esq. on Bogotá

Col. Cuauhtemoc Sur

Mexicali, B.C

(near the Plazita)

Open 8am to 9am – closed Mondays..

Betty Boop restaurant

I’m not usually a ‘food poster’ – so I don’t usually post pictures of food – but since we are talking about a restaurant, I’ll break some of (my) rules..  It’s a casual place – with a mix of Mexican and American style food.

with the requisite chips and salsa..

The owner, Francisco Padillo was there – and he was very nice, along with all of the servers.  I made my husband order his meal in his (worse than mine) remedial Spanish.  He also paid in dollars – with no eye rolls and/or  sighs from the staff..

the smiling staff at the Betty diner

All and all – it was a nice lunch.

Since, I was acting like a preadolescent girl, my husband (continued to) indulge me – and we headed over the Hello Kitty store just down the street – in the Plazita..

The Hello Kitty store

(Really – who can resist Hello Kitty!  – she’s just so darn cute!)

After that – we were off to do some of our regular errands..

Mexico on my mind….and the city by the fence


Actually, it is on my mind quite a bit these days, as you can imagine.  But that’s also the title of the new website where I will be contributing to articles about life, and health care in Mexicali.  It’s a website designed for Americans and other extranjeros living in Mexico, so I thought it was the perfect place for some of my articles on medical emergencies and medical services.

I think that if you are an ex-pat living in a different country/ culture/ etc. even if you’ve been here for a while – if you become ill, it’s a little more frightening and confusing than it might be in your old hometown.  So, hopefully the addition of a fellow gringa to help navigate the system, so to speak, is more comforting and helpful to readers..

Of course, many of the readers of the site are living in different areas of the country, so this is also a chance for me to speak up and promote Mexicali – and after being here for a couple of months – I really think that Mexicali is often judged harshly.

Sure, I don’t want it to become the next Cabo San Lucas – where Spanish is drowned out by drunken teenagers hollering, puking and carrying on in English, and Mexican culture has been submerged beneath a sea of tacky shops, Starbucks, and the homogenous effect of chain restaurants and fast food.  But I also think that when people skip over Mexicali, they are missing a chance to see an interesting side of Mexico – a side that is often downplayed to tourists unless you are heading to Mexico City.

But first – let’s be sure to say what Mexicali isn’t.  It isn’t a quaint seaside resort, or charming village.  It also isn’t a crime-infested border city, as we’ve talked about before.

If you are looking for cute, charming and rural – this isn’t the place for you.

But that’s not to say that Mexicali is without its own considerable charms.  It is first and foremost – a city of industry.  While this contributes to wide areas of industrial blight (factories and their by-products aren’t particularly attractive) – it also means that there is a significant sector of skilled labor and a higher overall standard of living.  Some of this industry is medical, but much of it is more traditional – factories and companies who came here to take advantage of NAFTA.  Frito-Lay is here, Modelo brewing is here, as well as several juice distributors and machineries.  But there is also Intuitive Surgical – the makers of the DaVinci Robot, a two million dollar piece of extremely sophisticated medical technology.

street art in Mexicali

It is also the capital of Baja California, so there is a large contingent of government offices here too,  along with the Universities and educational facilities of higher learning.

But most importantly, it is a city of people.  These people are the true heart of ‘Mexican culture’, in a very real sense.  I am fortunate that as a student, in my daily activities – I get to encounter these people on a day-to-day basis – and the people of Mexicali have proven to be as friendly and welcoming as any city I’ve ever lived.  Despite the close proximity to the border, this is the real Mexico – and it hasn’t been diluted.  Spanish remains predominant, and real working class citizens populate the streets and buildings as opposed to the more touristy destinations where everything has been ‘Americanized’ for our comfort.

Want to learn Spanish?  Then come here.  You will get to practice every day.  People will help you, correct your grammar, offer you the occasional missing word – and they do it with patience and a smile, but they will expect you to speak Spanish all the same.

The charm is here – on the quiet, upscale streets in the different barrios of the city, in the music emanating from well-kept homes, in the kitchens of mom and pop restaurants serving native dishes, and in the way that residents still welcome outsiders like myself.

They have pride in their city, their way of life and take pains to encourage me to sample it – pieces of their culture, whether as part of traditional festivities for a national holiday, or a bite of food from a street vendor or even just directions to the best [blank] in town.

an art museum in Mexicali

It also has its own identity, distinct from larger Mexico.  Some of this comes from dealing with the heat – 120 degree days in the summer are not uncommon – on these dry, sun-baked and parched streets.. Some of it comes from the unique make-up of this city – which boasts a shared heritage with a large Chinese community who fled the states after building the railroads.  So, yeah – they probably have the best Chinese food in Mexico too.

So hopefully, as I write about the doctors, and hospitals of Mexicali, visitors to the city will see the other charms that make me appreciate this place a little more every day.

Adventure Tours to Colombia


Want to see the lush beauty of Colombia without the surgery?

The tram to Monserrate

Ready to explore the sophisticated city of Bogota, combined with the historic jewel of Cartagena?   What about the sandy beaches of Santa Marta?

Overseas Adventure Travel is offering a new tour of Colombia for interested travellers.

If this whirlwind tour of Colombia isn’t enough for you – there are Bolivian and Panama add-on options.  Or you could always rent an apartment and stay a while (like I did.)

Overseas Adventure Tours

For a more tailor-made tour of Colombia, contact Mantaraya Tours.  This Colombian travel company offers a multitude of options to fit your budget (and your dreams!)

I wrote this post for the friends and family who were fascinated by my travels to Colombia – and wanted to see for themselves.  I have no affiliation or relationships with either of the companies listed.  (But if they are reading this – hope they buy a copy of the book).

Looks like they forgot something.


Dr. Diego Pineros, cardiac surgeon

Nice article in the Los Angeles Times about the strong work Bogotá physicians do in bringing care to the more remote areas of Colombia.  Too bad they forgot to mention the efforts of Dr. Diego Pineros – one of the cardiac surgeons at the Clinica San Rafael Institute of Cardiology and Cardiac Surgery.  We interviewed him last year about his humanitarian efforts.

(If you remember – the kind-hearted, and gracious surgeon shrugged off any accolades during our interview – and said he and his team travel to these remote areas to prevent further hardships for his patients.)  He also shrugged off any concerns for his own welfare despite the fact that some of these areas are close to / are located in areas with a heavy FARC presence.

So even if the Los Angeles Times doesn’t congratulate Dr. Pineros and his team for all their amazing work – we here at Bogota Surgery haven’t forgotten..

Dr. Diego Pineros (second from left) and his surgical residents at Clinica San Rafael in Bogotá

Bogota receives high marks from the Boston Globe


Ivy Hughes at the Boston Globe recently discovered the charms and attractions of this fair city in a feature article published  today.  She reviews some of the most popular sites and scenes of the city, while dispelling many of the myths surrounding Colombia and enjoying the Transmileno experience..

In other city news, Colombia Reports just published a new story on the development of a new plastic surgery center – catering to the needs of medical tourists.

I also wanted to thank everyone – we recently reached over 10,000 visits – in just the few short months since we started this site..

Hopefully, in the future, I’ll be able to afford to make this, (and the sister sites) ad free for less distractions..

The road to Monserrate


no, this isn’t some sort of quasi-poetic allegory, or sophomoric metaphor.  The road to Monserrate – really is a path, or more accurately, the stairs to Monserrate.   Monserrate is a popular tourism destination in Bogotá:  a church set high on the Mountain above the bustling city.  Despite the religious themes, Monserrate appeals to the faithful and the agnostic alike – due to the impressive and expansive views of the valley below.

the view from Monserrate

Traditionally, pilgrims climbed to the top of Monserrate on a worn-down path.  A train and a cable car also served to bring travelers, and tourists to the top of Monserrate.

The new upgrades to the footpath have just been completed – making the walkway more accessible to visitors.

The Bogotá Hilton (located in the financial district) also opened this week.