Sunday in La Candelaria


I am visiting Bogotá this week, before heading back to Medellin..

Bogotá is one of those cities that climbs into your heart – despite initial misgivings; too big, too cold, often rainy; becomes gloriously interesting and wonderfully cool..

I was armed with just a camera phone, so my friend, Camila Togni assisted in my photo-taking endeavors..

Sidewalk in downtown Bogota

Sidewalk in downtown Bogota

Despite its large size – the city manages to be hospitable and friendly to visitors – and I missed my Bogotá “home”.  So I headed back for just a few days to check in and enjoy all the things that make me love this unlikely city so much..

While Barrio Chico (where I live) is pretty quiet – La Candelaria is always quite a bit more lively.

I normally tend to avoid the Candelaria area because of the ever-present crowds of people, which is a shame because there are a lot of interesting places to visit and some beautiful architecture in this part of town.

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Alvaro Palacio & Claro Lozano in front of the Cathedral de Bogota

But this weekend is the celebration por el nino del 20 de julio (and the ORs are closed) so when my friends invited me to go downtown with them – it was an opportunity not to be missed!

First we headed to the Iglesia de nino de 20 de Julio since this what the holiday weekend was all about.. It’s a huge church – a campus, actually – and it was packed with people.

Iglesia de nino del 20 de Julio

Iglesia de nino del 20 de Julio

Even though it was crowded, it was a lovely service – and the church itself is quite pretty.

el nino de 20 de Julio

el nino de 20 de Julio

The church has a lovely glass dome and several stained-glass windows with religious scenes.

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The church is so large, the domed area actually isn’t part of the central church, but an overflow area with a jumbo screen television so worshippers can see the priest conducting the service in the main chamber.

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You can see the crowd milling in the foreground of this photo.

the crowd at the church

the crowd at the church

After the service, we wandered around the large flea market just a street away from the church before heading to lunch at a famous but tiny, and old restaurant called, “La Puerto Falso.

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While the rest of my party had their famous tamals, I was up for a bit of a culinary adventure, so I had a soup called Changua.

Colombian Tamal

Colombian Tamal

While the description of a soup made of milk, eggs, bread, mild local cheese and cilantro didn’t sound that entices – it was actually quite good and is part of Bogotá regional cuisine.

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Links for additional information about sightseeing in Bogota

More information about La Candelaria

Virtual tourist – La Candelaria

Video of LA Candelaria

Cathedral de Bogota

Most guides are going to send you to the Museo de Oro “The Gold Museum” but that’s not my favorite..

Museo de la Policia – probably my favorite of all the museums, thus far, in Colombia.  It’s free – guides welcome you in from the street – and you can see the bloodied, bullet-ridden jacket of Pablo Escobar, from his last moments on a rooftop in Medellin.  (It’s considered rude to ask about Pablo Escobar in general conversation) but if you hold any fascination about how a rural boy from an impoverished background managed to hold Colombia hostage, and gain international infamy – it’s a must.  The guides also offered free candy, and played a game of ‘rana’ with us.  (The are guides for multiple languages).

Sunday lunch: the food of Antioquia


So, my talent runs short when photographing food..

tipico

As I may have mentioned before, the regional cooking of Colombia varies quite a bit.  Cartagena and the other Atlantic coastal areas, are famous for the Caribbean influence of the local cuisine which is heavy on fried plantanos, fish and a caribbean (caribe) curry type flavor.

Bogota, as a more mountainous but cosmopolitan area boasts a ready mix of flavors, but also have delicious traditional dishes such as Ajiaco, and  my personal favorite, morcilla.

We’ve talked about the tamals of Tolima.. and the vast array of fruits and vegetables, many of which only exist here (or in very specific areas of Colombia).  I have an intense love for chonteduro, feijoa and uchuva myself.. There is another blog, by a fellow traveler – who documents his delicious encounters with numerous varieties of Colombian fruit.

found mainly around Cali (and some parts of Panama)

found mainly around Cali (and some parts of Panama)

While I mainly write about surgery and such, I think it’s important that visitors to Colombia have a chance to experience the rich abundance of this country – and no where is it more evident than in the streets, fruit markets and grocery stores due to the readily availability of fruit.  No visitor to Colombia should ever leave thinking Colombian cuisine is just arepas, empanadas and frijoles.

concord grapes, uchuva, mangos, brevas, strawberries, guava and mangostinos are just a few of the delicious (and cheap!) fruit grown in Colombia

concord grapes, uchuva, mangos, brevas, strawberries, guava and mangostinos are just a few of the delicious (and cheap!) fruit grown in Colombia

Mangostinos are a particular delight – with an inedible hard shell, but a creamy, smooth and amazingly rich/ sweet interior.

Mangostinos (and brevas) with rich creamy interior of mangostino visible.

Mangostinos (and brevas) with rich creamy interior of mangostino visible.

But the food of Medellin, the food of the ‘paisa’ has its own flavors.. Hard to know where to start – and you don’t want to get locked into thinking ‘bandeja paisa’ is all Medellin has to contribute to Colombia’s culinary culture.

But I am fortunate enough to live with a native Medellinesa, Diana, who (among other things) is an excellent cook, so I can pretty much label “Authentic Cuisine of Antioquia” to most of what comes out of the kitchen, with the exception of the few paltry and miserable offering of my own.  (I am not a good cook.)

DeAna, with Olle Petersson

Diana, with Olle Petersson

So for Father’s Day lunch, we had grilled pork with a grape sauce, rice and a ‘green salad’ made of green tomatos, mild onions, avocados and a light dressing along with a creamy vegetable soup.  (Sorry I don’t know all the foodie terms like compotes and such – but it was delicious all the same.)

creme of vegetable soup, pork with grape sauce, green salad and rice

creme of vegetable soup, pork with grape sauce, green salad and rice