The thermal hot springs of Santa Rosa de Cabal and the ruins of La Posada Alemana

Posted on October 10, 2023 by K Eckland

Just outside of Salento is the burnt remains of several large buildings on a large estate. That estate is the former hotel of the infamous Carlos Lehder, narco-trafficer and one-time ally of Pablo Escobar. La Posada Alemana was inspired by Carlos’ father ,Kurt Wilhelm Lehder, and the small Pensión Alemana he had owned. The senior Senor Lehder was no saint either, as a german immigrant who had moved to Colombia in 1928, he maintained strong ties to the fatherland. He is believed to have strong pro-Nazi sentiments, and to have helped the Nazi’s gather intelligence, using his hotel for meetings.

I don’t write a tremendous amount about Escobar and such, mainly because I feel like the topic has been talked to death, from Cocaine Cowboys, to Narcos and El Patron de Mal and every other quasi-documentary out there.

But since we were literally passing the burned out ruins, I felt compelled to stop and take a few pictures.

But our next destination was pretty amazing! I had actually seen it on a youtube channel. (There are a couple of great channels for information on tourism destinations in Colombia. My personal favorite is FNDCol. They have a great series on all the different states in Colombia. Another good one is FonturCol. Both pf these channels are in Spanish, but you don’t need English to appreciate the view.

This video is where we went – the thermal baths at Santa Rosa de Cabal, in the Colombian state of Risaralda.

We went on a misty, then rainy day – which ended up being perfect. The hot thermal baths (there are several pools), the chilly waterfall and cold rain on your face made for an extraordinary combination. We also took advantage of the deep tissue massages, and the adjacent restaurant and coffee bar.

For starters, there’s the view..

Then, the thermal baths themselves.. The water is deliciously hot. The waterfall provides for refreshing cool water along with several cascading showers.

There are flowers, and greenery everywhere.

We spent most of the day at the thermal baths – I could have stayed forever, honestly. And you almost can, since the falls are open until 11 pm at night on weekdays and 2 am on the weekend. Several locals advised us that nighttime visits were the best for couples, and a romantic date. Magical! But we left before that – to try the famous sausages of Santa Rosal at a charming roadside restaurant.

Lakeside cabin at roadside restaurant
Cabins
The famous sausage of Santa Rosa de Cabal
one of the many rabbits that make their home outside the roadside restaurant
The tree house and lookout point at the roadside restaurant

It was a cute restaurant, with a coverage main restaurant, a small snack shop and several little cabins for private meals. They also have a massive tree outback, with stairs that lead upwards to a lookout point. It was too misty that day for much of a view, but the famous chorizos were quite tasty.

After a late lunch, we returned to the town of Santa Rosa de Cabal (the hot springs are outside of town, a couple miles away). The town itself was underwhelming, but my impression may have been dampened by the grey rainy weather, so I will have to come back one day and give it another chance (happy to do as long as I can visit the springs again.) Of course, I might just end up staying at the folksy cabins just outside the springs – and skip the town entirely.

On our next post – we make our way to the sulty city of Cali, the Colombian capitol of Salsa dancing.

I’ve made it my personal goal to see (and experience) as many thermal baths in Colombia as possible (Paipa was fantastic too!) so I am going to include this link to 10 different thermal baths near Bogota for similar minded people to enjoy..

The charming and colorful town of Salento

Posted on October 5, 2023 by K Eckland

The trip has gone better than expected so far. In the last decade of so, I have developed a very poor heat tolerance – which makes traveling difficult sometimes. I feel overheated on a sunny day 70 degree day in Bogota (I have several fans installed at my house to the complete horror of my friends and neighbors.) Sometimes, I am sweating and overheating when my friends are putting on sweaters.. It’s kind of frustrating to deal with – but now I travel with my own fan, and ice packs. So, I was worried about traveling to the Eje Cafetero, because some areas are fairly warm, like Pereira but Andres was careful to plan most of our trip in the cooler areas. Not as cool as Manizales, which is my general comfort zone, but quite pleasant so far in our journey.

Salento is quite close to Valle de Cocora, and during our stay, the weather was cool, with rain overnight. Salento is one of those picture postcard towns, that as much as it’s a touristy place, it still manages to be charming, which was a pleasant surprise. (I am sure volume of tourists plays a big part – we were there during the week, just prior to school vacations (semana de receso) so while there were other tourists around, there weren’t any lines, nothing was crowded, merchants were pleasant, friendly and not at all pushy.

I like color – it’s one of my signatures in both interior design and fashion. I strongly believe that we should “live life in color” and I despite that all white cold, institutional look that is so popular these days. Same thing for grey, and beige schemes – which predominate in Bogota design. My own house in Bogota is a riot of color, and a color scheme that changes on a whim.

Salento is the same, rich with color – in the bright fashion of the coast, and the Caribbean versus the painted ladies of San Francisco. The other nice thing is that it isn’t just one or two streets – it’s the majority of the town.

colorful homes and businesses in Salento

We stayed at a lovely apartment hotel that was close to the center of town. We were able to walk everywhere. The apartment was well-appointed, and we could make our own breakfast in the morning. Our host, Mario was very nice and happy to accommodate our plans.

After we got settled, we walked downtown – and to the Mirador, which is a point above Salento that allows you to see the entire city below – once you climb the steps to get there. (There’s a less strenuous path to the Mirador, but I needed the exercise).

It’s 256 fairly steep steps, (less than half the steps of La Piedra del Penol, and only a quarter of the climb up Monserrate but it’s enough to make you breath pretty hard.

I found the actual city view a little underwhelming, but maybe I’ve been spoiled by all the beautiful Bogota vistas..

But once you reach the top, there is a trail that leads to another view point – and this one is breathtaking. Instead of city scapes, it’s a panaramic view of the valley and the mountains that surround Salento.

I could take a million pictures and probably never do it justice.. So here’s a couple more.. Just click on the image if you want to see the whole thing.

The older I get, the more I am awed by nature. It’s funny how that happens. Sometimes, I think that we need to see a lot of ugly to truly appreciate the beauty in the world.

On the way back, we did a little bit of shopping to celebrate Andres birthday – and so I could take pictures of some of the crafts. (I know, it’s in almost all my Colombia posts – but the different kind of artisanal art and indigenous and traditional craft here is so beautiful. I don’t need to buy it – because how many mochillas, bags, hats and other things does a person need? Then again – I do try to support local craft by buying it whenever I need a gift because why would you buy someone mass market crap when there is a plethora of beautiful handmade items that actually mean something out there.

(Not this time – this time Andres actually picked out the beautiful leather bag he wanted – and I’ll get a picture of it tomorrow.) But there is such a variety of so many lovely things, that I just can’t help but take pictures of it when they let me..

After that, we took some more pictures – found a nice restaurant before heading back to the hotel to sleep..

Tomorrow – Santa Rosa de Cabal and the thermal springs..

A surprise visit – to Eje Cafetero and Cali

Posted on October 4, 2023 by K Eckland

It’s been a bit since I’ve posted here, but the adventures continue. I spent some time in Pacho, Cundinamarca finishing up a manuscript for my second full length novel. Now that it’s done – I am in the tedious process of getting it edited and finding an illustrator.. Now, I am not the great American novelist and I have absolutely no illusions that I will find any mainstream sales success (no publicist, no large publishing house) but I have always believed that if you put in the time and effort to do something, finish it…

But, it was a relief to finally finish the book – and not have all the characters in my head all the time. That being said – there is always so much to do.. But we are taking a week to smell the roses and enjoy ourselves.. It’s a surprise visit for my significant other to see her daughter on her birthday. She lives in Cali – and she will be delighted to see her dad.

Since I’ve never been to the Cafetero or Coffee Region of Colombia, we decided to take a tour of it on our way to see her.

We left Bogota around 3:30 am.. We live in North Bogota, and our journey takes us south, so we have to cross the entire city first. (There isn’t a bypass though politicians have been promising one for the last 40 years.) By 4:30 we encountered traffic.. (If you haven’t been here – Bogota has a massive traffic problem – brought about by limited public transportation, a huge population of people who work on one side of Bogota and live on the other) and well, an exploding population, with a road system designed for a much smaller city. (In the 1990’s Bogota’s population was around 3 million, now in 2023 – we have close to that in Venezuelan immigrants with a total population of around 11 million).

But soon enough, we were on the open road.. Our first stop was Ibague in the Colombia state of Tolima. Culinary-wise, Tolima is best known for some of my favorites, Tamal tolimese and Lechona (stuffed roasted pig). (The links will take you to some older posts on these tasty Colombian dishes).

We stopped for some breakfast and a quick visit with family. (His, not mine, though I like to think of his large immediate family as mine). It was starting to get hot there by about 930 so I was glad when we hit the road again..

Now if you’ve never driven in Colombia – distances are very very deceiving. I recently got my Colombian driver’s license which requires you to take the full driving course to learn the Codigo de Transito, and clock your behind the wheel hours. Funny enough, I was rear ended while driving in the student car, which has massive green labels saying “student driver – keep back” – but that’s a story for another time.

The maximum speed limit in the country is 80 kilometers – but most of the time, you never get near it.. In the cities, the limiting factor is usually traffic – but in other areas, it’s the state of the roads themselves. There is always road construction. With a rainy and a dry season, you also get periodic flooding in some places.. Much of Colombia is high in the Andes mountains – with winding mountain roads – usually one lane in each direction. Add a couple of fuel trucker, semis (18 wheelers) and a whole bunch of motorcycles and cyclists – with people passing said fuel trucks, cyclists over double lines, on blind curves and all, you end up with an average speed of around 30 to 50 kilometers an hour.. (that’s less than 30 miles an hour for people like myself who weren’t raised on the metric system.) Sometimes it feels painfully slow.. But on highway 40 – it can feel dangerously fast..

*That time estimate is complete fiction..*

Unfortunately, due to the narrow roads, curves and such – I didn’t get many pictures of our drive – and it’s an unbelievably breathtakingly gorgeous drive.. You climb higher and higher in the mountains (which is delightfully refreshing with cool temperatures) with such a picturesque landscape, dotted here and there with fincas and small farms – but otherwise endless green trees, plants, grass and a wide open blue sky..

We continued on after a brief stop in Cajamarca (photo above) to Montenegro, where we spent the night. There are some cool things to see in Montenegro but we decided to relax a bit after getting up so early.

Sampled some coffee, walked around the plaza and swam in the pool. My companions were lights out asleep by about 730 that night. The next morning we headed off to the Valle de Cocora. If you’ve ever seen the kid’s animated movie. Encanto – it’s set in this part of Colombia..

*I love maps.. absolutely fascinate me, so of course – plenty of them in this post..*

The Valle de Cocora is part of the Los Nevados National Park and is located just outside of Salento. It’s famous for the large collection of Quindo Wax Palms, which are the tallest palm trees in the world. These palms are also part of the national identity of Colombia.

As part of the Nevados Mountain range, the palms are located at an elevation higher than Denver.. What does that mean, you ask? It means blissfully cool weather.. and lots of misty low clouds that drift in and out.

Today was the day that I realized that I am not a horse lover.. Not a horse hater either.. Wouldn’t want to knowingly eat one – and I used to get upset when they would sanction killing the wild mustangs when I lived in Nevada.

But I was never that pre-teen girl that was doing paint-by-number horse paints, or reading Black Beauty a million times (am I dating myself or what), and dreaming of owning a horse.. but I love animals in general, mainly feline varieties. Our neighbor used to graze horses in our yard when I was little in Virginia, and I have ridden before.. But not – horse crazy.

Ha.. So we decided to go on a “nice” horseback tour. I immediately felt uncomfortable, but hey – get back in the saddle right.. But it progressed to a freak out – and I ended up dismounting and walking (which is fine – I love a good walk/ hike). But it still surprised the heck out of me. I always feel like I am fearless.. Ha. Seabiscuit proved me so so wrong today..

Andres and his mom had a lovely time horseback riding.. Once my pulse went back to normal, and my feet were on level ground – I had a great time too..